Dog Care 101

Last week we started a dog safety series, which started with creating a first aid kit for your dog.  We also covered what to do to be prepared for any household or natural disasters. Best Bully Sticks knows that you can never be too prepared when it comes to you or your dog's safety. That's why this week we continue our safety series with treating burns that your dog might receive and how to treat them.

Burns & How to Treat Them
There are three different types of burns: thermal, electrical and chemical. Because of a domesticated dog's typical environment, household accidents are the most common cause of burns. For instance, if your dog is curious, electrical cords could become chew toys. Household cleaners could cause chemical burns and irritate your dogs skin or eyes.  Let's go over the different types of burns and what to do if they occur.

Different Burn Types & Stages of Burns
Thermal burns are heat-related burns and include open flames, hot air dryers, heat lamps, boiling liquids, semi-hot liquids or even sunburn. A chemical burn is any burn that comes from a chemical and there are two different types; acids and alkali's.  Electrical burns occur after a dog has come in contact with electricity, like as stated before, chewing on electrical cords.

Just as in humans, these burns can reach different stages of severity and are categorized as 1st, 2nd and 3rd degree burns.  A 1st degree burn is called a superficial partial thickness wound and only involves the top layer of skin.  Minor pain and redness are the symptoms but they usually heal quickly. Sunburn is a classic example of a first degree burn.  A second degree burn is called a deep partial thickness wound and involves the deeper layers of skin. These burns produce blisters on the skins surface.  Second degree burns are more painful, take longer to heal and introduce a risk of infection.  These burns require veterinary attention.Third degree burns involve complete destruction of all skin layers. Charring is easily seen and no sensation is left in the area of the burn. With third degree burns, a dog is highly prone to infection. This kind of burn is very serious and life-threatening and require immediate and extensive veterinary care.

What Burns Look Like & How To Treat Them
Thermal Burns
The most common thermal burn is sunburn and usually happen when a pet's coat is trimmed too short and leaves skin exposed.  Prevention is better than treatment, so if there is any non-pigmented (white) skin showing on your dog when they are outside for long periods of time, apply sunscreen that contain PABA and avoid those using zinc. Try to prevent your pet from licking off the sunscreen.

Other thermal burns will usually be contact burns and are usually 2nd or 3rd degree burns. The treatment for these contact thermal burns are as follows:

• Extinguish all flames. If electricity is involved, make sure the power is turned off.
• Avoid being bitten. You may have to muzzle your pet.
• Apply cool water compresses with a clean (sterile) cloth. This may prevent the burn from penetrating deeper into the tissues. Change the compress frequently, and keep the site cool and wet. If the burn involves only one part of the body, you can submerge the area in cool water.
• Do not break any blisters that may have formed.
• Do not apply any ointments or butter-like substances.
• Do not apply ice to the burn.
• Carefully transport the animal to your veterinarian!

Chemical Burns
Burns caused by chemicals may be hard to see because your dog's coat may hide the burn.  A strange odor usually a sign that a chemical burn has occurred and again are usually 2nd or 3rd degree burns.

• Avoid being bitten. You may have to muzzle your pet.
• Make sure the area is well ventilated.
• If the burn is from a dry chemical, brush away as much of the substance as possible. Be sure to protect the mouth, nose and eyes of you and the pet.
• If you KNOW the chemical was an acid, wash away with a solution of baking soda dissolved in water.
• If you KNOW the chemical was alkalis, wash away with a solution of vinegar and water.
• If you don't know, wash the contaminated area with large amounts of warm (not Hot!) flowing water. Protect yourself with appropriate safety equipment.
• If the chemical has gotten into the pet's eyes, flush with clean water or sterile saline for 15-20 minutes.
• Do not apply any ointments or butter-like substances.
• Do not apply ice to the burn.
• Carefully transport the animal to your veterinarian! If possible, bring the chemical's container with you.

Smoke inhalation is another type of chemical substance that can be toxic to dogs.  If your pet is around fire, or fumes from burring materials such as plastics, rubber or other synthetic materials it can be very harmful to your pets respiratory system. Carbon monoxide is another dangerous chemical you dog could inhale. If your dog encounters any of these, go to the veterinarian immediately.

Electrical Burns
Electrical burns are most often found near the mouth from chewing on electrical cords.  The dog's mouth will have burns at the corners or on the tip of the tongue. However, the burns aren't usually as serious as the shock they receive from the electricity.  Serious shocks can cause a dog to go into cardiac arrest.  If a dog doesn't go to the vet immediately, brain damage or death can occur. Do not attempt to treat the dog at home in any way. Take your dog to the vet immediately.

As always, prevention is key. Keep your chemicals and electrical cords out of the way of your pets. Also, be conscious of what to do if any of these should happen. In most of these situations, home remedies aren't recommended.  Go to the vet as soon as possible and call ahead and let them know you're on your way so they can be prepared as well.

You never have to be prepared for your dog's happiness. Happiness comes naturally to dogs with loving families.  However, if their safety should be compromised, you should be prepared.  The first step in being prepared for any pet emergency is knowing your dog.  If you know how your dog acts in normal day-to-day activities, you will know when something isn't right.  Best Bully Sticks knows that you would never want to be without your favorite pup, so over the next three weeks we are running a "Preparing for Dog Safety" series on our blog.  We want you to be able to think through emergency scenarios now so on the off-chance something goes wrong in the future, you'll be prepared. Today we'll talk about creating a pet first aid kit and disaster preparedness.

Getting It Together: Gathering Supplies For the Kit. The first thing you'll want to do for your doggie first aid kit is purchase the items for the kit and container that will hold them.  Good containers for the kit are water-proof plastic and have a snap lid. If you can find a plastic, snap-lid container that has compartments, even better. This will ensure that you aren't searching frantically through items when you need them in an emergency. Items for the container include:

• Cotton Pads for clean up and topical applications
• Cotton Swabs for topical applications and clean up
• Towels (atleast 2)
• Paper towels
• Blanket (compact thermal blankets work well. These keep an injured dog from going into shock.)
• Bandana for muzzling or securing a torn earflap
• Little socks to cover or protect wounded paws
• Flashlight
• Matches
• Gauze for swabbing, padding or wound cover
• Bandages for compression and dressing
• First Aid tape
• Vet Wrap (sticks to itself but not fur)
• Scissors
• Tweezers
• Sterile Needle to remove splinters and tick heads
• Turkey Baster or bulb syringe for flushing wounds or force feeding
• 10cc Syringe with no needle for administering medications
• Eyedropper
• Tongue depressor to examine mouth
• Rubber Gloves
• Nail Clippers
• Comb
• Rectal Thermometer
• Disposable Safety Razor for shaving fur from around a wound
• Worming Treatments
• Antiseptic for small grazes and wounds
• Antibiotic oinment
• Sanitizer for cleaning your hands
• Anti-bacterial Wipes or pads
• Hot/cold pack
• Hydrogen Peroxide for induced vomiting (Make sure you check the expiration date every so often.)
• Activated Charcoal Tablets (effective for absorbing many toxins)
• Rubbing Alcohol for a cooling agent for heat strokes or fevers, help break down oils, drying agent between toes and skin folds, but DO NOT use on woulds as it can damage skin and not an appropriate antiseptic)
• Musher's Cream for treating paw pads
• Sterile Saline Solution
• Milk of Magnesia for upset stomachs
• Benadryl for bug bites and allergic reactions (regular variety only)
• Gentle Pet Sedative like all-natural Bach Rescue Remedy
• Aspirin (for dogs only, 1 tablet per 60 pounds; do not use acetaminophen or ibuprofen; do not give aspirin to cats; since aspirin and other pain relievers can be toxic to any pet, consult your vet and first aid books)

There is a lot in this list, but to be truly prepared, you never know what your going to need in an emergency.  You may never have to use any of these items, but each could be helpful and potentially life-saving.

Making the right list: Vital Information To Keep Handy. You will want to make sure you also include some vital information in your kit.  Writing your name, your dog's name and your phone number on the front of the box in permanent marker is a good idea. Placing a list of all your vet's information, including phone number and name inside of the box is also necessary.  A list of all other pertinent pet information including your pet's allergies, existing medical conditions and pet records will also be helpful to you or a helper during an emergency.

Disaster Preparedness: Making a Plan. Making a plan ahead of time for any potential natural disasters, household emergencies or quick evacuations is necessary.  Here are a few tips to prepare ahead of time.

1. Don't leave your pet's behind! Your pet most likely won't be able to fend for itself during a disaster and if by some chance they do, there is a very imporobable you will be able to find them when you return.

2. Get a Rescue Alert Sticker. This sticker is a notification to rescue workers that there are animals in the household.  You will want to make sure it is visible to rescue workers and includes the number of pets and type of pets in your home as well as your vet's phone number. If you evacuate with your pets, and if time allows, write "EVACUATED" across the sticker.  You can receive a free emergency pet alert sticker from the ASPCA or purchase one from your local pet supply store.

3. Find Shelter. This is just as important for you as it is your dog. It's important to not that public heath shelters don't accept pets because of health reasons. Many hotels and motels don't allow pets either, so check ahead of time to find out which ones do. Ask friends and relatives outside of your area if they would be willing to take your pet for a short time. Check with animal shelters in your area to see if they provide emergency shelter or foster care for pets. If you do stay in your home through a natural disaster, bring your pets inside, immediately.  If you have a "safe room" place all your pet's emergency supplies there. Make sure you close off any openings such as a fireplaces, vents, pet doors, etc. Provide newspaper for sanitary reasons. Keep your pets calm. This may mean separating dogs and cats because animals can be very anxious or irrational during emergencies. Make sure you have fresh water available and food for you and your dog.

4. Evacuating with your dog. If you think you may be gone for only a day, assume that you may not be allowed to return for several weeks. When recommendations for evacuation have been announced, follow the instructions of local and state officials. Make sure you have all your pet's emergency supplies. A crate or kennel will be helpful as well.  Keeping your leash on your dog at all times during evacuation is necessary. Dogs tend to act very anxious during emergencies, so keeping them restrained is very important. This may even mean using a muzzle. It's important all tags and identification are up to date as well. Again, make sure you have fresh water available and food for you and your dog, so carry spare bottles of water and a bowl in your car. It's always good to carry a spare leash in your vehicle as well.

After a disaster or emergency, your dog's behavior may change, so keep an eye on their actions and reactions. Also, if a disaster has affected your home or area, keep your dog on a leash when you return to your location. Stray pets or wild animals may be in the area and familiar scents and landmarks have changed, so you will want to keep your pet close. As always, love on your dog and remember, what's best for you during an emergency will be best for your dog. If you have any medical issues you cannot handle, take your dog to a vet immediately.

Here at Best Bully Sticks, we know that not all aspects of dog ownership will be enjoyable for you or your pet.  One of those could be bath time.  If your dog is anxious about getting a bath and is a pain to clean, chances are you aren't enjoying the struggle involved either. If you've owned your dog from puppy-hood the process of making bath time stress-free may be a little easier, but no matter the age, your dog can still learn to like baths.  Here are a few ways to ease your dog into coping with bath time.

Creature Comforts: Creating A Comfortable Environment For Bath Time. If you think your dog is generally okay with baths, here's a sure-fire test. If your dog doesn't take food or a treat from you while in the bath, it means your pup isn't comfortable.  There are a couple reasons why the physical environment of your bathroom isn't calming to your dog.  One of the best ways to enhance a dog's physical presence in the tub is a non-skid bath mat or even a towel.  If a dog doesn't have traction, they won't feel physically at ease in any situation. When bathing your dog, remember that hot water doesn't always equal cleanliness.  A lukewarm temperature will be comfortable for your dog and won't dry out their skin as hot water would.

Chaotic To Calm: Changing Your Dog's Perceptions About Baths. After you make the dog physically comfortable in the bath, the next step is emotional comfort.  Anxiety about baths can change if a dog is eased into relating the bathroom to a place where good things happen.  Anytime you are in the bathroom, lead your dog in and give them a treat. Next, step into the tub and give your dog a treat. Even try feeding your dog in the bathroom and slowly move their food into the actual tub as they become more comfortable.  For dogs who get bathed in sinks, it's the same idea. Work to slowly move toward the sink, putting your pup down and giving them a training treat each time you move a step closer.  Reiterate this practice until the dog is calm.

Water, Water, Everywhere: A Word On Water. When your dog gets comfortable with the idea of being in the bath, try turning on a small amount of water. If you begin squirting, spraying or dumping water on your dog, the fear of baths will return.  Pour just enough water to get your dog's feet wet and see how they react. If it's positive, very slowly add a little water to wet his legs more, then the body.  Again, go slowly with the head, ears and neck of your dog. During this first session, you might not even want to use shampoo.  The goal is just to keep your dog calm during this process.  If you did shampoo, it would mean rinsing and thus adding considerable time with water in the tub.

Slow & Steady Wins The Race: Being Patient With The Process. Conditioning your dog to thinking more positively about baths will take time.  Remember that this may not be an overnight change, but if you are persistent, you will reap the benefits of a stress-free doggie bath. Two of the biggest things to remember: go very slowly & reinforce with small dog treats (positive reinforcement.)  A clean dog just might truly become a happy dog.  Happy training!

Dogs can get colds just like their owners.  If your dog has a cough, runny nose and eyes, sneezing, general lethargy and loss of appetite, he or she might just have a cold.  Also similar to human colds, dog colds aren't severe. Here are a few tips on helping your pup get back to romping around.

Comfy & Cozy: Keep Your Dog Warm & Dry. You'll need to make sure your dog stays inside as much as possible. Cold air can further constrict a dog's bronchial tubes if they are having a hard time breathing. Routine potty breaks outside should remain normal, but when inside keep your pup warm by adding blanket to their bed, covering them up or putting a hot water bottle in their covers.

Calories Every Day Keeps the Doctor Away: Making Sure Your Dog Eats and Drinks. If your dog seems indifferent toward their food, there are a few ways to get their calorie intake up.  If your dog won't eat dry food, try a hot low sodium chicken broth, or mixing up a combination of veggies, boiled chicken and rice.  Your dog is certain to be interested. Making sure your dog stays hydrated is equally important. If they don't seem to want to drink water, try a sports drink or add an electrolyte mix to their water. (Always check with your vet about the ingredients on these products!) This helps to replace fluids that your pup may be losing to mucus production.

Doggies In The Mist: Vapor & Moisture. There are a few ways to help break up your dog's congestion. Turn on a very hot shower and sit in a closed bathroom with your dog. You can also use a humidifier, which creates the same effect.  Both of these will help loosen any mucus your dog has built up.

The key to helping your dog get over a cold is pretty simple--If it works for you, it just might work for your dog. If the symptoms become more intense, please take your dog to the vet. It could possibly be something more serious than a cold.  Illnesses such as Parainfluenza, Kennel Cough or Canine Distemper are all more serious ailments that could be disguised as a cold. If you're an attentive dog owner, you'll pick up on the difference in a common cold and something more serious. Never second guess taking your prized pup to the doctor.

At Best Bully Sticks, we believe snuggling up with a dog on a frigid winter night is one of the greatest joys in life.  However, during the winter months your dog might need a little extra warmth.  Shivering, curling up into a tight ball, or getting closer to heat sources are a few signs Fido is cold.  Here are a few tips to help your dog stay nice and cozy this winter.

More Dreaming, Less Shivering: Keeping Your Dog Toasty Through the Night.

One thing to keep in mind is the placement of their bed, so make sure it’s out of the way of drafty windows or doorways.  As owner's we wear socks in the winter to keep our feet off the cold floor, but the floor being where you pup sleeps, he might need a little extra padding as well. So if your dog's bed is thin, provide an extra bottom layer by placing a towel or blanket underneath.  Also, some dogs like to burrow into blankets and by giving them an extra blanket on top of their bed, they’ll be able to stay warm through the night.

A Home of My Own: Winter for Outside Dogs.

If your dog is outside in the winter months, make sure they have good shelter and can stay out of wind and precipitation. The shelter needs to be sturdy, with no possible areas for leaks.  A good bed of fresh straw or cedar chips make good bedding.  If it ever becomes exceptionally cold for prolonged periods of time, bring your dog in for added warmth.

An Extra Layer of Fur: Dog Sweaters & Jackets.

Whether your dog is out for a walk or needs a little warming up around the house, a sweater is the right answer.  Bundling up your dog is just as important as bundling up yourself during the winter months. A good knit weave is a favorite option among dog owners but if you live in a snowy climate, a nylon material will keep the moisture at bay.  If winter brings ice your way, all-weather doggie booties, like Pawz Natural Rubber Dog Boots, will keep your pup's paws warm. Even something as simple as Mushers Secret Paw Protection will help protect your dog's paws and pads on the harshest winter day.

A Little Can Go A Long Way: Feeding Your Dog A Bit More.

Dogs burn extra calories throughout the winter to maintain warmth. By feeding your dog a little extra, they keep warmer easier. A little bit means a little bit.  You don’t want to overfeed your dog.  As always, keep your dog’s water bowl filled up too. They always need a good amount of water each day.